Back on the Pipe

So after 6 months of staying off of the Pipe, on October 16th I broke down. I couldn't handle being off of it any more, the wait was over. I could hear it taunting me, "Get back on the pipe Raff, you know you want to..." And I'm sad to say that I couldn't say no...

I hope you all know I am talking about the boulder problem Pipe Dreams in Farley. For the past 10 months I've been training and climbing with the sole intention of going out to Farley and taking down my nemesis. In the last 8 months I've dropped 20 pounds, been training like a madman, and just waiting for the conditions to be right for the send. The humidity of summer finally passed, and for once it didn't rain on a Sunday. It was a now or never situation considering my wife is ready to give birth at any moment and who knows when I'd be able to make it out again. I wanted to have maximum friction so I left at an ungodly hour in the morning, picked up Alex Enright and headed west. 

The ride out was full of friendly banter about music, climbing videos, upcoming comps and climbs we're psyched on after Pipe Dreams! Finlay (aka. Crag Demon) was crammed in a 1'x2' space between the door and three pads shoved in the back seat of my 'Coroya'. Every now and again she would try to break free into the front seat taking the path of most resistance in between Alex's shoulder and seat belt. But after a few girlish screams and some hard elbows, Finlay was back where she belonged. We continued our journey and our discussions of how after the epic send we'd run up to Stereogram and blow our tendons out on the tremendous pile of hurt (different story all together). One and a half hours never seemed so long, maybe it was because it felt like 3 in the morning, the sun was barely up and the coffee hadn't kicked in yet. But before we knew it, we were in the old parking lot, throwing way too much in our pads, watching Finlay taking a steamer on a nearby bush and heading down the path.

The path to Pipe Dreams

After getting attacked by the local gang of miniature yipping dogs, we arrived at the warm up boulders at the base of the hill where the crest of Pipe Dreams can be seen. Warm ups were excruciatingly long but necessary, I was achy and sluggish. For the first moment I thought, wow I may not be ready for this. Finlay of course found some mud to lie down in and a tree to carry around with her in hopes that we'd be able to spend the day playing fetch rather than doing anything that we wanted to do. Next thing I know, I was chalking up the holds, ticking microbeta that I remembered clear as day and sitting on the pads at the base of the wondrous wave of rock that I had learned to hate and love so much. Now or never...

Keep in mind that everyone has good and bad days, you could be crushing one day and struggling up your warm ups the next. It happens to us all. Maybe it was the expectations that I was going to send first go, the amount of psychtitude (it's a word) that I've been building for the last six months, the gorgeous morning, the bagel with Nutella that was so damn good, or maybe it was the winds of fate. Maybe I should've trained harder on standing on nothing because that's what that f*@#ing foot felt like. I cruised through the bottom crux without wincing and made it to my personal crux every damn time, standing on that high foot and bumping right hand into the slopey side rail seemed to be anything but possible for me that day. I wasn't tired, I wasn't hungry, I wasn't even annoyed with Finlay, I just couldn't purchase on the foot that's been giving me trouble for 10 months. What can you do? There would be no send that day...

Am I frustrated? Yes. Am I angry with the world? I had my moment, I'm not going to lie. My goal was to send Pipe Dreams before my baby boy is born and that will happen before the end of the weekend. I'm going to be a dad by Halloween and that makes me smile. Three things come to mind when I think about my epic journey to send Pipe Dreams:

1. Pipe Dreams will always be there, and I will send it one day
2. That's climbing - it's what I love about this sport, you have to work hard and accept your failures as much as you bask in your accomplishments
3. I am going to be holding my son Logan on Sunday instead of driving west to Farley and I couldn't be happier

For those that are curious, we did walk up to Stereogram and decided that it was a no-go kinda day. So we headed over to Pterodactyl so Alex could try the sit start variation, and we ended up with a few great pics:

 Me on the last move from the stand of Pterodactyl V8

Alex halfway through the sit start variation of Pterodactyl Sit (V11)

More to come...

How the West was Won

I have a confession.... I'm cheating on climbing. It's selfish I know, but it's only for three or four months at a time and anyways, climbing is such an attention whore these days that I doubt I'm missed too much. Besides, this is not some flirtation.

Skiing and I have been quite serious since about the time I became legal... at least that's when it became enjoyable. Anyway, if not for skiing chances are I would have never been introduced to climbing.

Here's how it happened.

As mentioned, I grew up skiing. Family vacations to Vermont have been a regular thing since as long as I can remember. Then in college I founded the Ski-n-Board Club mostly as a way for my friends and I to get the student government to fund some trips up to the mountains. Then it happened, my senior year in college I went out to Crested Butte, Colorado with some friends for a week long ski trip. This was my first trip out west and it was amazing... Colorado anyway.

The trip itself sucked. If you haven't experienced altitude sickness, I suggest you don't. I've developed the AAAAA system as a means for people to remember the ways to avoid it/ speed their recovery:

Avoid going from sea level directly to an elevation of 12,162 feet.
Avoid hydrating yourself with beer and mixed drinks.

Avoid sleeping in double beds with three or more people- rest is key.

Avoid bull-riding. You never look as sexy in the act as you imagine anyway.

Avoid increasing altitude, including chairlift rides up 2,775 feet worth of elevation gain.

Don't make my mistakes.

Had I been fortunate enough to hear about AAAAA before my trip I could have avoided the many ailments of altitude sickness including but not limited to exhaustion, headaches, nausea and vomiting. Plagued the entire duration of my trip I am left with some truly classic memories of blue sky days, powder turns and puking slope side at least twice a run.

Also, though not documented, I'm fairly certain another symptom of altitude sickness is a friend will hook up with a guy you're really into in the living room while you're laying in bed.

Needless to say I wasn't my usual, charming self. While in town getting groceries my friend Greg picked up a box of a medication called Altitude Adjuster and suggested I give it a try. In the bustle of bagging groceries I glanced at the label. My face instantly heated and I snapped, "FUCK YOU GREG!" Startled, Greg slowly pointed to the box and underlined the title with his finger encouraging me to read along.... clearly I did need an attitude adjustment.

After all, I was on spring break in Crested Butte, Colorado with good friends, amazing snow and blue skies ... plus I had lost at least five pounds.

Long story, short, after all of this, that trip changed my life... I knew where I needed to be. After graduation I landed an AmeriCorps position and moved out to Boulder for skiing and adventure. During this time I met my dear friend and roommate Mary, a phenomenal climber who shared her passion for the sport with me... and it's all history from there.

Four years later I found myself back at Crested Butte, only this time during the early summer for the bouldering at Skyland Boulders- a tucked away playground where climbers are energized by light playing in the bright greens and whites of a thick Aspen grove and the wind bringing the trees to life.

As for my tumultuous relationship, I'll sit the two down one of these days and come clean, but until then... what's that rule about different area codes?

SLTS of the Future

New things are taking off at Slightly Less than Sponsored. First off, we're in the process of finalizing our new website that we'll be launching in the next couple of weeks. We're all really excited about it! It will allow us all to express our own individuality by each having our own pages linked directly to SLTS Homepage! You'll see what I mean. Get ready for photos, videos, climbing trips, shenanigans, etc.

Second, we have a new logo...

Yeah, I know, it's nothing too special but it's my first go at creating a logo. I'm sure it will be updated in the near future. 

Third, we are on Facebook! That's right, right in the face...

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Slightly-Less-Than-Sponsored/214804258583717

Make sure you get over their and "Like" us so we can start building this thing bigger and better. The posts will keep coming, we'll keep on talking about our passions and the ridiculousness that we experience on the day by day.

Fourth, we have new faces joining us. Matt Arsenault - a climber and surfer with wavy golden hair you can get lost in, is joining the crew. Look forward to his posts, they're sure to be enjoyable.

As we're moving into this new phase of what we're hoping will bring joy to the masses, your support is undeniably important to us. We don't ask for anything but that you spread the word and follow our mishaps and adventures on our blog. Thank you all so much and we're looking forward to this next step. Peace!!

- The SLTS Crew

Life Imitates Art

You know what hasn't been updated lately? This blog. The honorable, attractive, rag-tag group of mediocre climbers are certainly a busy bunch. Now don't get me wrong here, you know this blog means the world to us! It's just, you know, life can get in the way. So it's with this half-almost-sorta-apology for our absence that I dive back into the blogosphere, with a renewed commitment to the cause.

There's a good lesson to draw from our temporary lull though, and that's what I'd like to write about in this post.

Life can get in the way.

Even the most dedicated climbers can get distracted with all the million details of the day-to-day and lose sight of their goals.

I'm probably not the most dedicated climber in the world. I love this sport with the passion of a thousand suns, but over the past few months I've made less time than normal to feed my climbing addiction. I've been cycling, traveling, socializing, and trying to do a decent job in the workplace. As a result, my strength and endurance are a little low. But with the (slowly) sinking temperatures and brilliant fall sunshine, the clouds of distraction have lifted and the psych is back.

Full blown.

And Climbing, that beautiful beast of a sport, has been there waiting for me this whole time. She's certainly not sympathetic-spitting me off of easy moves with no remorse-but she's not one to hold a grudge either. I'm hoping that a stout training regimen will help me find my way back to her good graces, like a wayward child regaining the approval of their parents. If I mind my P's and Q's, perhaps I'll be in good enough shape by the time Dark Horse rolls around to avoid making a complete fool of myself.

This post has been very Katie-centric, focusing on my personal experiences, but I know I'm not the only one in this boat. For the contributors of this blog and many readers as well, climbing isn't just a way to get fit and meet good looking people. It's a lifelong passion. We're allowed to get distracted, goof around, and then return when the time is right. So here's to getting back on track!

Sylvester Stallone @ Rumney this Sunday

This Sunday (the 24th) SLTS is teaming up with Fake Disco Threads (http://bit.ly/FakDis) to capture an average climber's typical day in the woods... only now, our adventures are paired with a sick soundtrack, high definition and zooming capabilities to emphasize our amazing guns.

Come partake in edge of your seat action.. documenting what having fun in the woods is all about... playing hard, dirty language and SPF 8. It'll look something like this I'm sure...

(playing the part of Stallone will be SLTS's very own Bryan Rafferty)

We'll be heading up to Rumney in the am and seeing where the day takes us. Come find us and be a part of our day.... it's definitely the best option available to you this Sunday.

See you there!

High Kicks in Small Spaces

Climbing is known for being rough and tumble. My mom called me a hooligan the other day when she saw the scabs on my elbow, I have poison ivy all over my ankles from last weekend's adventure, my shins are permanently scared and I don't even bother with nail polish anymore. Whether you climb indoor or out, on ropes or without, you'll take a beating.

So for a sport that absolutely rips through my wardrobe I struggle rationalizing spending top dollar on the latest apparel. Don't get me wrong, I can appreciate how sweet my butt looks in a pair of lululemon yoga pants, but come on, let's face it, it looks equally fantastic in a pair of Old Navy yoga pants (see exhibit 1 for comparison).


Exhibit 1.


As this examination has proven, it is silly to spend excessive money on clothing for climbing. (unless a company's got an incredible return policy, like Patagonia or REI (return every item), or if they are designed to take a beating like Carhartt.)

The solution? Well, I'm a big fan of Goodwill and Savers. I think a good pair of used dungarees goes a long way... plus there are aisles of them for you to choose from. Once you select a few candidates, all you have to do is test them out. In a fitting room I would suggest practicing a few high kicks to simulate heel hooking. You want to make sure the waist is flexible enough to allow for ample flexibility and movement, but restricted enough to prevent plumber butt. Also, keep in mind that jeans these days are designed to stretch- make sure to jog in place to test their elasticity.

Plus, in the warmer months an added bonus to buying previously owned jeans is the ability to turn them into shorts sans remorse... heads up though, don't cut them too short or you'll be experiencing some awkward riding up issues.


In case there is any question, I've put together the following proof:

Mathematical Proof- If smart is sexy and you're smart for saving money on clothes that serve the same purpose and keep you looking sexy, then I'm pretty sure that makes you sexy².

The excitement of a trip

So my friends, it has begun.....

the three month journey across this country called America. My 'climbing' trip. Now I put climbing into this title loosely, however I feel like it is still going to be epic. Like all trips climbing or anything else for that matter, it all begins with the planning of everything. I have had this trip booked for almost six months now, however don't really have too much planned. I have kind of time frames and areas that I would like to be and when, but that's about it. I am going to be visiting people as I go, trying to talk them into a little weekender trip, or more. California is the first port of call, Keith Share is the person joining me on the first leg. Now when you think Cali, you think Sunshine, Yosemite, Bishop, etc etc etc Sunshine is my first though. However, apparently there is a 40 to 60% chance of rain over the weekend.... boo to that.... big time, no matter I am sure that we will find something to climb that isnt covered in rain.

Next on the agenda is Portland Oregon, Smith rock to be a little more precise, Sarah Harmon the one, being magnificent. Colorado is gonna get snuck in there as well. A mid trip non climbing Ohioan wedding will be there to break and shake things up a bit. Then the one we have all been waiting for..... Boston!!!! (crowd goes wild) (goes wild I said (shakes fist at reader)) All of these places are going to be amazing and I really can't wait to get to each new spot, however not wanting to take away from the trip ahead of it.

Anyway, 'planning' is usually first, then comes the packing. three months is a reasonable length of time for a trip especially when you have to try and fit your life into a 90L pack, with a 40L day pack. the excitement really builds when you have everything laid out in front of you. your tent, Sleeping bag and thermorest, stove, pots and pans, clothes and alike, and lets not forget the climbing gear too. you look at it all and think, "How the hell am I going to get all that stuff into these two bags?" Tetris is now the aim of the game.... a few things get sacrificed and dont make the cut. All this is helped along a little by the fact that I had my car stolen with quite a bit of gear that was going to be coming along...fuck you who ever stole and torched my car..

sorry, side tracked there a little. any way. Planning, then packing, then all of a sudden after the months and months saving, You are at the aeroporto at 5 in the morning to catch your first flight... Sydney to LA is around 14 or 15 hours.... you should try it some time within the next year when you come and visit me in Australia, think of this as your little guide to it all. No stolen cars though, that sucks.

So here I am now, midnight on Wednesday, after about 30 hours of transit, awaiting the excitement of what is to come. I hope to see you somewhere in this wild country people.
you show me around here, and when you get over to the Down Under, I will gladly show you what we have to offer up!