So yesterday was day 2 on Pipe Dreams, my project for the season. Another 5 hour day of camping out at the base of it, staring at the beautiful wavelike rock with chalked up holds from the week before. Both weeks there has been quite the crowd of climbers looking for the epic send of this proud climb. After the first couple of hours, the crowd thinned out as people made their way to some of Farley's other classics while me a small crew stayed to lock in the sequence that was spitting me off time after time. So much compression!! It's like picking up a washing machine, holding it at waist height and trying to move your hands without dropping it...awesome.
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Sammy Enright squeeeeeeezing! |
Amongst the crowd, Vasya Vorotnikov and Neil Mushaweh cruised by after killing it up at
Stereogram and
Babies with Rabies, two of Farley's best...and hardest. After watching some of us flail like fish out of water, Vasya got on and made a great first burn past the bottom crux, falling at the slippery squeeze towards the top that I don't think he was expecting. After a 10 minute break and some friendly banter, he was back on for an inspiring send that got us all psyched on the problem all over again. Sick send!
As for me? Felt strong but weak...at the same time. Definitely need to spend my time more effectively, and warming up on more than the little chode of a block showing in the bottom right of the picture above. Even though progress was minimal, I'm falling in love with this problem more and more every week. And there I will be, every Sunday that I can.
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