Its amazing at how fast a night can be turned around in the climbing world... Today I decided, spur of the moment to head into the gym and hit up some good old fashioned top roping. Bouldering, for the moment, has not been at the forefront of my mind, as I am wanting to increase that good old endurance of the body, and not be tired after eight moves up the wall. I have also recently gotten on the sharp end of the rope, and gotten back into leading after a hiatus of about six or seven months. This new found excitement and passion for climbing has spurred me to get better in all realms of climbing, so that I can experience all facets when I make my way to the States again.
I have been setting some pretty nice routes in the gym in recent weeks. Climbs that have been challenging for me, helping me work on technique and endurance. Pleased with what has come about in the setting world, Tonight felt pretty good to get on and conquer some of these once and for all. I have gotten on them before, but was shut down by one, or a few moves. All these being areas that I see as weaker in my climbing.
So tonight was the night that it was going to happen. After warming up on about four or five climbs, ranging in difficulty, I was feeling good, to move onto the harder stuff that I wanted to get on. The first was a 22 or roughly 5.10d / 11a (for you American folk). Moving well through the climb, I got through my own Personal crux of the climb, a sneaky high step, hand match such and such, better than I had at any attempt before. The move, while not the actual crux of the climb I don't think, was the tough spot for me, and I was stoked to get it. It wasn't the first time I had got the move, as a week earlier I had got though it, but got so excited that I had made it, I rushed the next sequence and fell. However I composed myself enough at this attempt and worked through the rest of the climb without drama.
The energy level in me was rising and I was feeling really good, giving myself a few minutes to compose myself and settle down a little. The next climb I was attempting was one that I had been working for a few weeks, with just one move evading me. With a grade of 25ish (5.12a). To try and put and image in the heads of the reader, the move was a tough right arm lock off in a reasonable crimp, with a big full stretch reach into a off skew side pull on a negative angle with your left hand. Along with this you had to try and rotate ever so slightly into a drop knee on the left. probably a little hard to invisage, but I hope that you get the general idea. It was on, I gathered my thoughs and off I went. On all of the moves I felt super confident, working my way through them I reached my crux. Chalking up and trying to focus on remembering to breathe, a close friend on the wall next to me, gave me some helpful encouragement, waiting for me to make the move. I threw for the devilish crimping side pull, and at full stretch, managed to just latch it. getting what I call my 'Inner Sharma" on, I yelled aloud, willing myself to hold on. Getting this hold was exhilirating. Now I just had to get through the rest of the climb. My friend, was again there to give some words of wisdom, getting me to breath, take a slight rest, and the push through. The end of the climb went smoothly and I finished it up with that amazing final lunge to the top of the wall.
The amazing high of getting this climb, is understood by many climbers. The sense of accomplishment, happiness and exhiliration all rolled into one, had my adrenalin pumping...
Only to be brought down a few climbs later. The crushing low of an injury on the wall is also well know by all climbers. On a very slimple move to, and from, good holds, My knee said to me "ummm.... no thanks..." Falling off the wall I grabbed it, and signalled to be lowered down.
My high of getting my project climb had been taken from me, and what had replaced it was anger and sadness. Anger because it was a simple move on good holds, why would it happen then....? Sadness as I am now giving myself a two week break to let my knee recover a little..
It's very interesting going so quickly from one realm to another. Amazing Highs to Crushing Lows. Everyone has been there, and in their climbing career will probably be there again, all you can do really is put it all in perspective. Bummer about the knee, a few weeks and I will be back into it all. But wow... It felt so good, that amazing high, that sence of achievement.
From Down Under. much love from The Aussie
miss you love :)
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